A grass lawn offers little for butterflies, bees and birds. Who can resist the popping reds of Turk’s cap, the contrast of purple Mexican bush sage with yellow copper canyon daisy, or the pink on the autumn sage? These and other hardy, native plants add beauty, color and nourishment for pollinators.

Replacing shallow-rooted turf grasses like zoysia and St. Augustine grass with deeper-rooted native and perennial plants produces healthier soil that absorbs more water and creates less run-off.

It blooms in the spring but the main flowering period for the Copper Canyon Daisy is in late fall. The inch-wide flowers can be so dense that they hide the foliage, producing an eye-catching mound of solid golden-yellow while saving you water.

Aside from beautifying your yard and providing nectar for butterflies, many of the approved plants for the Watersaver Landscape Coupon also double as host plants for butterfly and moth caterpillars.

Snakeherb (Dyschoriste linearis) is a low-growing ground cover that spreads through underground rhizomes. In the spring and summer, small purple flowers can be spotted within the green foliage. Common buckeye butterflies will lay eggs that hatch into black spikey caterpillars. They’re difficult to spot and generally don’t cause any noticeable damage to snakeherb. (Don’t be put off by the name by the way, it refers to the plant’s historical use as a snakebite remedy.)

Frogfruit (Phyla nodiflora) is a versatile ground cover that supports many different butterfly species. The common buckeye along with phaon crescent and white peacock butterflies all lay their eggs on frogfruit. When in bloom, the tiny white flowers support an even wider variety of pollinators.

Flame acanthus (Anisacanthus quadrifidus) is an attractive summer blooming shrub that plays host to the crimson patch butterfly caterpillars. They’re somewhat rare in San Antonio, but the small black caterpillars feed in groups and can denude many branches when they get going. But have no fear, the flame acanthus is used to this and will bounce back quickly as soon as the caterpillars fly away as attractive adults.

nInland Sea Oats sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) and Muhly grasses (Muhlenbergia spp.) don’t produce beautiful flowers, but they do host caterpillars. Many skipper butterfly caterpillars feed on grass leaves before becoming winged adults.

Cenizo (Leucophyllum frutescens) produces eye catching displays of purple flowers after summer rains. Besides lending the landscape year-round interest, the silvery leaves are the choice food for the theona checkerspot butterfly and the striking Calleta silkmoth. While rarer than the checkerspot, the silkmoth caterpillar is huge and brightly colored and the adult is also large with an interesting wing pattern.

The Texas mountain laurel (Sophora secundiflora) leaves are noxious to most herbivores, but the genista broom moth caterpillars can eat them. These small caterpillars don’t do much damage to mountain laurels and are rather rare most years. But they’re a good food source for adult bats.

Mexican buckeye (Ungnadia speciosa) is host to another moth species — the Packard’s prominent. These are medium-sized green caterpillars with a red horn on their tail similar to the tomato horn worm.

Planting butterfly host plants is just as important as providing nectar for attracting butterflies to your landscape. Additionally, a more diverse selection of host plants means a higher diversity of visiting butterflies.

By Cleveland Powell, Conservation Consultant for SAWS. He is enthusiastic about grass taxonomy and milkweed propagation. In his free time, Powell enjoys hiking around area parks in search of intriguing bugs, birds and plants.

Most plants are dormant in winter. But there are a few that will make your landscape a yuletide treasure. From holly and mistletoe to poinsettias and Christmas trees, plants have always played a part in celebrating winter holidays.

Deciduous holly or possumhaw puts on quite a show during the holiday season. Cheerful red berries borne along bare stems add a flash of color to South Texas winter landscapes and provides a much-needed meal for wildlife. Also consider its cousin, evergreen yaupon holly.

Spice up your Christmas tamales with a native subshrub that may be in your yard right now — chili pequin. Often mistaken for a weed, this spicy petite pepper can be enjoyed until the first frost. It looks great in a formal landscape when planted en masse. With little white, star-shaped flowers and red and green peppers that resemble Christmas lights, this plant couldn’t look more Christmassy if it were wearing an ugly sweater!

Red and green aren’t the only holiday colors. For Jewish Americans, Hannukah is celebrated with blue and white. Salvia ballotiflora lights up any garden with small blue and white flowers. Trim it back in February to produce a more tidy, full form. Its bloom time is spring and summer, but miraculously this medium shrub reblooms just in time for the festival of lights.

Scarlet sage is a hardworking hummingbird favorite that blooms year-round. A hard freeze will slow it down, but it’ll bounce back in spring. Pair it with frostweed in a dry shady spot to provide a pollinator buffet. When winter temperatures dip below freezing, frostweed puts on a dazzling display with delicate ribbons of ice that burst from the base of the stem.

A reliable December bloomer that’s often overlooked in the nursery trade is pink thoroughwort. Its fuzzy white blooms resemble falling snowflakes.

Using evergreen plants to decorate in winter is a practice that dates back thousands of years, and they’re a reminder that warmer times are ahead.

Not sure what to choose? CLICK HERE for our list of lovely native Texas evergreens to choose from.

By Kevin Pride, a SAWS Conservation Field Investigator and a self-proclaimed nature boy. He has a background in restoration ecology and is zealous about native plant landscapes that use zero irrigation. Kevin spends his free time deep underground surveying caves or hiking barefoot with his daughter, Daisy, and their dog.

Humble and a bit rotund, with zigzag-patterned leaves, dogwood is one of those Charlie Brown-like plants with friendly everyman qualities that endear it to gardeners and landscapers alike. Besides being easy to grow, tough and resilient, it’s instantly recognizable with great fall color.

It’s hard not to get interested in a plant that houses man’s best friend in its name. Turns out the common name dogwood is actually an Old English reference to “dagger wood” — an ancient use for which this species’ hard wood made a natural fit.

Back when I worked on the East Coast, classic species like flowering dogwood and red osier dogwood book-ended the landscape calendar, with endearing Snoopy-eared flowers in spring and traffic-stopping red color in fall. (Even the branches were colored red!)

In the San Antonio area, the native dogwood species roughleaf dogwood (Cornus drummondii) has to get by without as much water as its relatives from wetter climates. Growing as a large shrub or small tree in deep soils, woodland edges and creekways, dogwood is as fast-growing as hackberry, but much better behaved. And it fits amicably into smaller spaces around bigger trees. (Hint: It’s a perfect specimen for that 8-foot strip between your water meter and the house, where planting bigger trees can be a danger to the underground service line.)

Its creamy flower clusters and abundant white berries are distinctive, but underappreciated is its burgundy autumn color — the sort of purply-grey that makes a nice contrast with other plants’ chlorophyll green. It’s a brief show before dogwood drops its leaves for winter.

But on a recent cold Saturday along the Riverwalk’s Museum Reach, dogwood showed off its team spirit to great effect. It was proudly showcased as a specimen tree in some spots, sheared flat like a boxwood in others, and filling in the background with miniature purple thickets around the San Antonio Museum of Art.

As a Texas native, dogwood isn’t a blockhead or wishy-washy like a lot of introduced, invasive or over-watered plants. And having plants that can endure local weather extremes without an “AAUGH!” is the kind of security blanket we could all use more of in the home landscape.

By Brad Wier, a SAWS conservation planner. Years in South Texas landscaping and public horticulture gave him a lasting enthusiasm for native plants that don’t die when sprinklers — and gardeners — break down. He’d rather save time and water for kayaking and tubing. He is a former kilt model, and hears hummingbirds.

Monarchs were listed as an endangered species, so selecting plants that support this iconic species is more important than ever. By now, many have gotten the memo that milkweed is necessary as a host plant for monarch caterpillars, but tropical milkweed may be problematic. It keeps monarchs from continuing their migration and hosts parasites.

San Antonio actually has quite a bit of milkweed growing along roadsides, especially zizotes. However, monarch butterflies aren’t typically laying eggs in the fall. They’re simply passing through. Nectar-rich, fall blooming plants are the most important gift we can offer them on their journey.

Here are some of the many plants you can add to your landscape to attract monarchs and satisfy their food needs.

White mistflower is a small shrub that occurs locally in the wild and can also be found in nurseries.

Gregg’s mistflower is not only beautiful but irresistible to monarch and queen butterflies.

Shrubby blue mistflower, aka Crucita, is the Rio Grande Valley mistflower, but it will reach into southern Bexar County and it’s irresistible to all butterflies.

Scarlet sage thrives in virtually all conditions, especially partial shade. Its cheerful red blooms feed butterflies and are also a favorite of hummingbirds.

Mealy blue sage is one the most common Salvias in our area and therefore a favorite butterfly food.

Autumn sage is a very common perennial in San Antonio landscapes and it comes in red, purple, pink, and white varieties.

Frostweed is one of their favorite plant species. Found growing under the shade of live oaks, this plant’s blooms are timed perfectly for the fall migration. Gather seeds later this year and toss them in a shady spot in your yard

Plateau goldeneye puts on a show every autumn with an abundance of yellow blooms. After they finish blooming consider leaving them (their seeds) as a food source for songbirds in the winter. This plant is great for large areas as it will sprout readily from seed and form colonies.

Turk’s cap is a native perennial that adapts to sun and shade. Many varieties exist, including pink flower ones to large flower tropical species.

Other nectar options include:

Goldenrod

Gayfeather

Cowpen daisy

Maximillian sunflower

Flame acanthus

Fall aster

Evergreen sumac

Kidneywood

Cenizo

In 2015, San Antonio was declared the first Monarch Champion City by the National Wildlife Federation. Many San Antonio organizations have committed to restoring habitat for the state insect of Texas.

By Kevin Pride, Garden Style SA

The first days of full scorch are here. Scorching sun in cloudless skies, high temperatures and blades of limp grass on the lawn when arriving home from work. Many homeowners greet this sight with the same solution: adding an evening cycle to the usual morning sprinkler system schedule.

It’s no wonder water consumption in San Antonio steeply increases at this time of year. Instead of just running in the morning, the sprinkler system is now running in the evening, too, and throughout the landscape — not just in areas that need it, like the scorching west-facing lawn, but in shaded areas and landscape beds that don’t.

Running the entire system twice uses twice as much water. And, once the sprinklers are set to run twice a day, they may continue to do so for the rest of the year — not just in July and August. The steep increase in consumption invariably leads to a wave of high bills, straining our infrastructure and your wallet.

Three suggestions:

> Don’t use a second start time to run the entire program cycle twice. Instead, identify your critical turf zones – the ones facing west in the afternoon. Critical zones can either be run manually (the best option) or, potentially, on a “B” program.

> If you use a second start time or a “B” program, remember to remove or deactivate it after August. There’s never a need to water twice a day after August, but typically these extra cycles will remain on the program for an indefinite period of time, leading to high water bills and water waste for the rest of the year, and often in spring as well, until you get the first spring sprinkler bill and realize the error.

> If you do run two cycles, then reduce both run times so the total run time is reduced. For example, if you normally run a zone for 22 minutes, run the two cycles for 15 minutes or 30 minutes total. This will still increase your bill, but when you follow the first bullet’s concepts, certainly not as much.

If you need help identifying critical zones or setting your irrigation system controller, SAWS offers free irrigation consultations. Schedule your free appointment today!
By Brad Wier, a SAWS conservation planner. Years in South Texas landscaping and public horticulture gave him a lasting enthusiasm for native plants that don’t die when sprinklers — and gardeners — break down. He’d rather save time and water for kayaking and tubing. He is a former kilt model, and hears hummingbirds.

Laying sod is not recommended during late fall and winter. In fact, most of our programs are designed to minimize or eliminate grass in your landscape since that’s the most efficient way to save water.

But for those who insist on laying sod in the coming months, there is a right way to do it — and it involves plenty of preparation and patience. For the best outcome, follow these eight simple rules.

• Make sure you have at least six inches of soil. If not, stop right now. Plant perennials and groundcovers

• Rake the area free of all stones, organic material and other debris. You want clean soil to enhance immediate root to soil contact.

• Don’t add compost to the soil. Many experts now think the decomposing compost will produce enough carbon dioxide to inhibit root growth. Wait until after planting.

• Pre-moisten the site and sod the night before. This helps with good root to soil contact.

• Lay out the sod in a brick pattern, offsetting the pieces like you would in a brick wall.

• Using a hose, apply water lightly after sod pieces are in place. No need to inundate the sod and soil.

• Press the sod lightly with a drum roller. This will ensure good root to soil contact.

• Water for four weeks. Remember, there are hardly any roots so there is no need to water any more than that. Follow this simple watering schedule. You can also water twice a day for four minutes for two weeks; then once a day for eight minutes for two more weeks.

BY Mark A. Peterson, a conservation project coordinator for San Antonio Water System. With over 30 years of experience as an urban forester and arborist, Mark is probably the only person you know who actually prunes trees for fun. When not expounding on the benefits of trees and limited lawns, you’re likely to find him hiking San Antonio’s wilderness parks or expounding on the virtues of geography and history to his friends.

As Earth Day approaches, I’m reflecting on the positive impact homeowner associations can have on their communities. Encouraging sustainable landscapes is one of them.

Caught up in the whirlwind of life, I always appreciate the timely tips and local updates shared in our HOA newsletters, such as when to prune oaks to help prevent oak wilt or the city’s watering rules. And I love to daydream while admiring the artful landscapes recognized in the “Yard of the Month” feature.

Guidelines for a “Yard of the Month” often include maintaining tidy edges, a neat appearance, pruned shrubs and trees, and minimal bare spots and weeds in a garden bed or lawn. HOAs often have a separate recognition for holiday events.

If I might suggest guidelines for an Earth Day “Yard of the Month,” I would include these sustainable practices.

Is the landscape designed to attract wildlife? Look for plants that provide nectar and seeds, or act as host plants. Layers of trees, shrubs and perennials make good habitat. Avoiding pesticide use is best.

Are most plants drought-hardy? Landscape watering often adds up to 50 to 70 percent of a summer water bill. Selecting water-saving plants can minimize watering once they are established.

Does the yard minimize turf? Lawns are thirstier than drought-tolerant perennial plants. Less grass means less watering. If you like lawn, strive for the rule of thirds with one-third lawn, one-third landscaped beds and one-third outdoor living space like a patio. Frame your lawn with flower beds.
Are clippings mulched into the lawn or composted on site? San Antonio’s green bins are also a great option.

Are landscaped beds mulched? This helps conserve water and keep weeds down. Extra points for “green mulching,” or planting densely.
Are hardscapes porous? Pathways and patios should be permeable to allow water through.

Is landscape lighting dark-sky friendly? Lights should point downward and only on when needed.

Complementary colors and design choices should make it pop. Perennials typically need less water than seasonal annuals.
Extra points for hand watering! Turn the faucet’s handle to half-open and the average hose will use 300 gallons in 30 minutes. Compare this to the average automatic sprinkler system which uses 1,500-2,000 gallons per cycle.

Our HOAs are uniquely positioned to influence our neighborhoods to create a more sustainable, nature-rich San Antonio. Highlight your most eco-friendly yards in April for Earth Day! (Every month encouraged.)

By Sasha Kodet, a conservation planner whose large garden attracts a myriad of wildlife and curious neighbors with minimal water. At SAWS, Kodet develops outdoor programs to help people create their own beautiful, water-saving landscapes. She draws on her two decades of experience as a naturalist, botanical garden educator and event planner. Kodet enjoys (really) long walks in the woods and has thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail and the Long Trail.

>Fill container with potting soil and a balanced slow-release fertilizer. Use 5-gallon pots for standard tomato varieties.

>Plant one pepper or tomato transplant plant per container. Plant peppers at the same depth they were growing at in their previous pot and plant tomatoes slightly deeper so the lowest leaves are just above the soil. Firm the soil around the base of each plant gently with your hands.

>Water your potted tomatoes and peppers every day or two until the excess moisture begins dripping out of the bottom.

>Move pots to areas that receives at least six hours of sunlight daily. Taller tomato varieties may require a cage to support the plants as they grow.

Turf installation may be the single biggest water user in the lifetime of a residential property. Hands down, putting in a new lawn uses way more water than filling a swimming pool. Even in San Antonio, with our established conservation culture, this comes as a shock to most people.

For the record, a modest 15-by-30-foot pool (3 feet in the shallow end, 8 feet in the deep end) will average about 13,500 gallons to fill. After that it uses much less, provided it’s not leaking. And if it’s covered, the water use is more akin to an irrigated xeriscape — about 1,600 gallons per month (from topping it off after splashing and evaporation, especially in hot weather).

Now let’s look at that new lawn. After unloading fresh cut grass sod on bare soil on a hot summer day, many builders set sprinklers to run twice a day, or more, every day. Compare that to the typical five-zone irrigation system, which uses 5,000 gallons per month running just once a week (4.3 times per month). But running seven days a week, your sprinkler use for that new lawn has just climbed up to 36,000 gallons per month (that’s almost three swimming pools’ worth of water!).

Establishing turf depends heavily on weather conditions during and after install.

Some irrigation systems and custom builds are much, much bigger (think 20 zones, 20 gallons per minute) — that’s like filling a new pool every month!

Either way, irrigation that runs this way uses a staggering amount of water. And until it’s turned down, that continues month after month. Problem is, the turf doesn’t go in until just before a new build is sold, and by the time the bill arrives, the builder is long gone and you’re the one paying for it.

Turf specialists recommend cutting back the watering after the first week, but builders don’t usually do that. It’s usually left to the new homeowner — unknown to them, of course.

Rule of thumb: new sod may be established as soon as three weeks after install, depending on conditions. As soon as you can, cut back irrigation to once a week. Otherwise, you may be diving into the deep end on your very first water bill.

SAWS offers free irrigation consultations for customers. Just give us a call to schedule an appointment.

And if you haven’t tried growing grass in San Antonio yet, you’ll find there’s a reason why SAWS customers turn to our conservation rebates to minimize turf, maximize landscape beds, and reduce the size of the irrigation system.

By Brad Wier,  a SAWS conservation consultant. Years in South Texas landscaping and public horticulture gave him a lasting enthusiasm for native plants that don’t die when sprinklers — and gardeners — break down. He’d rather save time and water for kayaking and tubing. He is a former kilt model, and hears hummingbirds.